Rest in Peace Steve LaMantia (Mr. Scary Sharp)

Long before social media became commonplace, there were list servers on the internet. These were text-only email lists that you had to subscribe to. Everyone that subscribed had the ability to post to the list so that everyone on the list could see their post. It was a great way to get to know other like-minded folks that shared a common interest.

One such listserv was OldTools. As a matter of fact, it’s still around and very active.

I learned a lot off of that mailing list and got to know a lot of good folks. It’s a tremendous resource. But over the years, I’ve had to back off simply due to the sheer volume of emails and the time required to read them.

Continue reading “Rest in Peace Steve LaMantia (Mr. Scary Sharp)”

Restoring Old Hand Tools — Seminar Links

Below is a list of supplies referenced during a seminar at the Woodsmith Store on October 17.

Materials, Supplies, and Links for Restoring Old Hand Tools

Sharpening Auger Bits

Auger File

Valve Grinding Compound

Lapping Grits

Sharpening Hand Saws

Saw Sharpening Files

Veritas Saw File Holder

Veritas Jointer/Edger

Italian Needle Files

Braces, Bits, and Yankee Drills & Drivers

Garrett Wade

Hex Bit Adapter

Screwdriver Bits

Spiral Ratcheting Drivers

General Cleaning Supplies

Wire Wheels

Safety Goggles

Dust Mask

Lacquer Thinner

Mineral Spirits


Wash Bottles

Lightweight Oil (3-in-1)

Old Toothbrush

Cleaning Brushes (Lee Valley)

Cleaning Brushes (Woodcraft)

Dropper Bottles

Needles & Syringes (for oil)

6″ Cotton Swabs

Shop Rags

ProtecTool Wax (Lee Valley)

Restoring Hand Planes

Wet/Dry Sandpaper

Non-Woven Abrasives

Plane Tote (Handle) Templates (Lee Valley)

Veritas Replacement Blades

Pinnacle (Woodcraft) Replacement Blades

Tools for Working Wood (must search for “Stanley Replacement Blades”)

Hock Tools

Interesting Links Worth a Look


How a Hand Plane Works

Hock Blade & ChipbreakerI thought about titling this post “The Physics of Hand Planes” but that sounded too much like a high school or college class title.

I’ve always been intrigued by why some hand planes seem to work better than others. My criteria is what type of shaving it produces. For me, if I can produce a thin, full-width shaving with a smoothing plane, I consider that plane well-tuned.

Of course, there are a number of factors involved: The sharpness of the iron (or blade), the cutting angle, whether or not a chip breaker is used, the mouth opening, and so on.

What got me to thinking about this was using my old No. 3 Stanley plane. I had installed a new Hock blade and chip breaker. I was using it to smooth the edge of a board prior to glue-up for a larger panel. It’s a sweet plane. The evidence is in the photo.

But it turns out there are a lot of woodworkers that are also interested in how a well-tuned plane really works. Check out the links and videos below.

And if I ever have a large shop making a lot of money, I’m going to have one of these:

Making a Leather Strop

Leather StropsI remember as a young boy my dad taking me to the small-town barber shop in Delaware, Ohio. I remember sitting there, waiting my turn, reading comic books, and listening to the old men gossip and tell stories. I couldn’t wait until it was my turn in the chair because I knew I’d get a piece of Bazooka bubble gum afterward. The barber kept a big box of it under his cash register.

I also remember the barber giving some of the men shaves. This was back before health regulations put a nick in that practice. I remember the barber pulling out his straight razor and sharpening it on his leather strop hanging on the barber chair. I seem to remember the strop being two-sided — leather on one side and linen on the other. If memory serves me correctly, the barber would make a few strokes on the linen side before finishing on the smooth leather side.

For years, I used some scrap pieces of suede leather as a strop after sharpening chisels and plane irons. Don’t ask me why. I think in my mind I was removing the microscopic remains of the wire burr left after using the “scary sharp” method of sharpening using wet/dry sandpaper. But I still did it after I switched to a combination waterstone. In both cases, I convinced myself that it put that final sharp edge on the tool. I could shave with them.

When I acquired some larger pieces of thick leather, I decided to make strops out of it. There was enough material to make two strops about 2-1/4″ wide by 7 or 8 inches long. I cut two pieces of 1/2″ Baltic birch to use as a base for my strops. I cut the leather slightly wider than the base and glued the rough side to the plywood. I clamped them face to face to keep the leather flat. Good old Titebond was all I used.

I charged one of the strops with the green honing compound from Veritas. The other, I’m going to leave clean. The theory is that the charged one will be a bit more aggressive at removing the wire burr while the final polish will come from the clean strop.

Now, I’ve been reading a lot about stropping. Should you use the rough side or smooth side of the leather? Thick or thin leather? Charged or clean? Should you strop straight tools like chisels and plane irons or will stropping round over the bevel?

Having dabbled in carving, stropping is about the best and only way to periodically hone your tools as you carve. For gouges, the leather “gives” to conform to the shape of the tool.

There are a lot of good articles  on the ‘net about honing. Joel over at Tools for Working Wood has written several. And Ron Hock has a few things to say about sharpening on his blog.

Sharpening a Blade for a Scraper Plane

Scraper PlaneAs a part of rehabbing my newly-acquired but used Lie-Nielsen scraper plane, I needed to sharpen the blade. If you’re not familiar with how a scraper plane works, it’s quite a bit different than a standard bench plane like a smoothing plane. If you’ve ever used and sharpened a card scraper, you’re familiar with how they work. A slight burr is formed on the edge. It’s the burr that performs the cutting action.

The Lie-Nielsen scraper plane comes with a thick blade. And their web site has complete instructions on how to sharpen it for use. The first thing I did was flatten the back and remove the existing burr on a series of diamond stones. Then I proceed to hone the bevel. Finally, I clamped the blade upright in my face vice and started to form a burr with my Veritas burnisher. (I’ve also used the shank of an old screwdriver as a burnisher.) I used two hands to apply firm pressure making a few strokes starting at about 45° then working toward 90°. (Because I had the camera in one hand, you won’t see both of my hands on the burnisher.)

I installed the blade in the plane. I just let it drop to the surface of the workpiece the plane was sitting on. By adjusting the angle of the blade, the burr will eventually “bite” into the workpiece and form thin shavings.

This is a great tool to use for smoothing large worksurfaces that might have unpredictable grain prone to tearout with a standard smoothing plane. The scraper plane doesn’t care about the direction of the grain. It will create a glass-smooth surface.

Diamond Stones are the Cat’s Meow

The first time I used a really, really sharp chisel and plane iron, I immediately became aware of how sharp tools can make or break craftsmanship. With a sharp tool, fine-tuning a joint or smoothing the surface of a workpiece becomes effortless and precise.

When I first got serious about woodworking, all I knew about sharpening was that you were supposed to use a bench grinder. At least that’s what I grew up seeing my dad use. Oil stones were reserved for pocket knives.

Combination waterstone

Then along came the Internet. I soon learned about the “scary sharp” method using wet/dry sandpaper. I was hooked. The tools for this method require nothing more than sheets of sandpaper and a flat surface. For years I used a polished wall tile I picked up at one of the big-box stores. It’s a 12″ x 12″ tile that’s perfect for holding a sheet of sandpaper. For touching up my chisels and plane irons, I’d start at about 400-grit and work my way up through 2000-grit. It’s a quick and relatively inexpensive method for sharpening edge tools.

Then came the fad of using waterstones (oilstones are so messy and so “old school”). So I put away my “scary sharp” method in favor of a combination waterstone. I used it for a few years but soon discovered one drawback: Waterstones become dished out with use and require flattening. You can buy dedicated flattening stones, but I used 80-grit sandpaper on my 12″ x 12″ wall tile. It worked great, but can be messy.

DMT DuoSharp Bench StonesThen a friend of mine told me about the wonders of diamond stones, specifically the DMT DuoSharp dual-sided combination stones. Once I tried them, I was hooked. I rarely use any other sharpening method. I have the WM8CX and WM8EF models. This gives me a good range of grits from coarse to fine that serve the majority of my sharpening needs. Yes, they’re a little pricey, but well worth the investment.

Here’s what I like about the DuoSharp stones. They’re flat and they stay flat. No need to mess with flattening them periodically.

The steel plates that are coated with diamond grit are perforated. This means that when you spritz the stones with a little water before sharpening, the swarf doesn’t clog the stone. All it takes to clean the stones is a wipe with a cloth or running them under the tap and drying them thoroughly.

The best thing I like about diamond stones is how quickly they cut. It doesn’t take much to get an edge. I proved this when I was chiseling out a lock mortise for a door jamb and hit a nail. After gritting my teeth in frustration at ruining a good chisel edge with a sizable ding, I drug out the diamond stones. I started with the coarsest grit and worked my way up through the finest grit. It took my all of about 10 minutes to get back to a “scary sharp” edge.

If you’re one of those that has to work toward a mirror polish on your tools, you can invest in DMT DiaSharp Bench Stones. They’re available in grits as fine as 3 microns.

You can view a chart of the available DMT grits by clicking here.

So how do I know when a tool is sharp enough? My first test is to see if it will “catch” on my thumbnail as I try to drag it across. But the final test is to take a piece of basswood or soft pine and see if I can make thin shavings of the end grain. If I can’t, it’s back to the sharpening stones. If a tool is anything less than sharp, the fibers of the soft wood will crush rather than be severed cleanly.

Happy sharpening.